Buttery, Garlicky Steamed Clams
  
  In our relatively warm Southern waters, we do not have the steamer, soft-shelled clams found along Northern coastlines. However, this quick and easy dish will rival any found north of the Mason-Dixon Line. And it works just as well for Northern clams.

Serves 4 people.

• ¼ pound plus 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
  
• 4 tablespoons very finely minced garlic
  
• 2 cups finely sliced scallions, using both white and green parts
  
• 2 teaspoons crushed red pepper flakes
  
• 1 cup dry white vermouth
  
• 3 pounds littleneck clams, scrubbed and dried
  
• 1 cup roughly chopped Italian parsley
  
• A heavy-bottomed pan large enough to hold all of the clams

1. Put ¼-pound of butter in the pan and heat it over medium heat until hot but not smoking. Add the garlic, scallions, and crushed red pepper flakes and cook for 3 minutes, stirring occasionally, being careful not to let the garlic burn.

2. Add the vermouth, raise the heat to high, and cover the pan. Bring the mixture to a rapid boil and add the clams. Cover and continue to cook at a rapid boil, stirring occasionally. When the clams begin to open, which can be in as little time as 1 minute, remove the open ones as quickly as possible in order not to overcook them. All of the clams should be cooked in no longer than 7 to 8 minutes.

TO SERVE: Divide the clams equally between 4 bowls, or place them on a big platter. Add the parsley and the remaining tablespoon of butter to the pan. Stir well to combine. Spoon the pan juices, garlic, scallions, and parsley over the clams. Serve immediately.