Preserved Duck with Fried Grits
  
  I introduced this combination on my menu in 1981. It's a favorite for visitors from other parts of the country who are getting their first introduction to grits. It's hard to imagine a better introduction to one of our region's cherished staples than these fried grits, crispy on the outside and creamy and succulent on the inside.

Serves: 8

For The Duck:

• 2 duck leg quarters from a 4 1/2 to 5 pound domestic duck
  
• Save the breasts for other purposes.*
  
• 1 Tablespoon Preserving Spices
  
• 1 Tablespoon + 1 1/2 teaspoons salt
  
• 1 1/2 teaspoons minced garlic
  
• 1 1/2 teaspoons finely crushed juniper berries
  
• 2 cups rendered duck fat or peanut oil

1. Combine the Preserving Spices, salt, garlic and juniper berries. Sprinkle the duck leg quarters with 1 Tablespoon of the mixture and place them in a single layer in a non-reactive pan. Cover the pan with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.

2. The next day, wipe the duck leg quarters with a damp paper towel to remove most of the preserving mixture. Place them in a heavy saucepan or Dutch oven and add enough rendered duck fat or peanut oil to completely cover them.

3. Bring the fat in the saucepan to a simmer over medium heat. Quickly reduce the heat until the fat barely shimmers with a faint simmer. This gentle cooking is necessary for the duck to be completely cooked but still succulent. Careful watching is needed here!

4. After an hour, pierce one of the leg quarters with a skewer. If it has finished cooking, the juices should run clear and the leg, when squeezed slightly, should feel soft and tender. If it doesn't, continue to simmer for another 15 minutes and check again. Remove the leg quarters carefully and let them cool on a plate. Reserve the fat or oil.

5. Although at this point the duck can be used as is, if time permits, extra aging adds an enormous amount of flavor.
To age: place the cooked and cooled leg quarters in a small bowl and strain enough cooled fat or oil over them to completely cover them. (If you are using duck fat and you don't have enough, add peanut oil mixed with the fat as needed to cover). Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate. The duck will keep up to a month.

6. When it is finally time to eat this duck, remove it from its fat, remove and discard the skin and pull the meat off into not-too-small shreds, discarding any tendon. You should end up with about 2 cups of shredded duck meat.

* If you don't have an immediate use for the duck breasts, wrap each in plastic wrap, put them in a freezer bag and freeze for up to a month. When ready to use, thaw the breasts in the refrigerator and proceed as desired.

For the Grits:

• 4 cups milk
  
• 1 teaspoon salt
  
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  
• 1 cup quick grits* (NOT INSTANT)
  
• 1/2 cup heavy cream
  
• 6 egg yolks
  
• 3 eggs, lightly beaten
  
• 2 Tablespoons water
  
• 1 Tablespoon peanut oil
  
• 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
  
• 3/4 cup dried bread crumbs, preferably homemade from French type bread. If using store-bought crumbs, be sure that they are unflavored.
  
• A buttered 9" x 13" Pyrex dish or cookie sheet with sides

1. In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, heat the milk to simmering over medium heat, being careful not to scorch the bottom. Add the salt and pepper, then add the grits. Stir constantly until the grits begin to thicken. Reduce the heat to low and let the grits cook for an additional 5 minutes, stirring occasionally and watching carefully so as not to burn them. Remove the grits from the heat and let them cool slightly in the saucepan.

2. In the meantime, mix the cream and egg yolks together. Incorporate the cream mixture into the cooked grits, whipping thoroughly and quickly to prevent lumps. Return the saucepan to the heat and cook over medium heat for about 3 or 4 minutes until the mixture bubbles vigorously.

3. Remove the saucepan from the heat and let the grits cool slightly. Pour them into the buttered pan. They should be 3/4-inches high and fairly stiff. Put the grits into the refrigerator to cool. Once cold, cover the grits with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or until they are firm.

4. Uncover the chilled grits, and with a knife or cookie cutter, cut the grits into the shape you desire. At the restaurant, I make rectangles by cutting 4 cuts on the 13" side and 3 cuts on the 9" side. These rectangles may then be cut diagonally into triangles. You now have grit cakes.

5. Mix the 3 eggs, water and peanut oil. Dip the shaped grit cakes into the flour, then the egg mixture and finally into the dried bread crumbs. Place them on a pan and refrigerate for at least 1 hour to let the breading dry.

For The Assembly:

• 1/4 cup peanut oil for sautéing Grits Cakes
  
• 1 cup chicken stock

1. Preheat oven to 150 degrees F.

2. Heat a heavy-bottomed 10-inch skillet (a fine old cast iron heirloom is great for this) over medium high heat. When the skillet is hot but not smoking, add the 1/4 cup peanut oil. Let the oil heat for 1 minute, then begin adding the grit cakes. Cook them for about 1 minute on each side, turning carefully with a spatula, until they are golden brown. As they are finished, place them on a pan lined with paper towels and put them into the 150 degree oven to keep warm.

3. Wipe the skillet with a paper towel and return it to the stove. Add 2 Tablespoons of the fat or oil used to preserve the duck leg quarters to the skillet. When very hot but not smoking, add the shredded duck and sauté it for 3 minutes over medium high. The finished duck should be hot, a little crispy, but not tough. Remove the meat to a warm plate.

4. Add the chicken stock to the skillet and boil rapidly for about 1 minute, until the bubbles grow larger, indicating that the stock has thickened appropriately. Transfer to a sauce boat.

To serve: place the grit cakes on a serving plate, top with the preserved duck and pass the sauce separately.